Highlights from the Big Island

In many ways, the Big Island is the most family friendly of the Hawaiian chain. Simply by the nature of its size it has more offerings to explore —at a total land area of 4,028 square miles, it is larger than all the other Hawaiian Islands combined. It has all the outdoor activities people associate with vacations—surfing, snorkeling, scuba, boating, fishing, hiking, camping, bike riding—as well as the ritzy resorts and fine dining of Maui and Oahu.

What is really special, though, is its impressive amount of biodiversity. The Big Island contains a staggering ten of the 14 different climate zone subgroups known in the world, each with a unique ecosystem. There are not many places on earth where you could go from watching the sunrise on a freezing mountain top, to driving through fertile cattle grasslands, go hiking in a tropical rainforest, stop to swim and gaze at the sunset on a black sand beach, and then end the day watching the glowing flow of molten lava.

My family and I just got back from an incredible visit to the Big Island, and even though I have relatives on the island and have been dozens of times, I still found new things to discover. We stayed in the Waikoloa area, which is on the northwestern part of the island. This district is called Kohala and is—without the wonders of modern irrigation—technically a desert (arid zone) much like Phoenix, Arizona or Death Valley, California.

Here are some North Kohala highlights that blew us away.

Lapakahi State Historical Park

Out of all the fun things to do on Hawaii, I had no idea that going to see a recreation of an ancient fishing village would be one of my family’s favorite activities during the trip.

700 hundred years ago, the land at Lapakai and the waters of Koai‘e Cove were founded by Hawaiian settlers as a small seaside village. The self-guided trail begins with mounds of lava rocks stacked on a platform that comprise a large Burial Site, then winds through several empty rectangular constructions which mark the ruins of ancient homesteads and canoe storage. On a rocky outcropping nestled against the perfect turquoise sea sits an impressive, reconstructed house—or hale—built with a bamboo frame and pili grass thatching.

I think this is the spot where the history comes to life. On our visit we were the only ones around, and in that quiet it was easy to visualize what it was like to live here. I could imagine the mother of the family waking with the sun and leaving the hale to take in the beauty of the area and plan the day’s tasks. The shape of the land protects much of the area from the powerful trade winds along the coast and imparts the space with a sense of protection. Ten steps from the door of the hale you can look down on ocean waters so clear masses of yellow tang are visible even while standing on the cliff.  

Remnants of life are scattered across the park and include the site of a water well and the bluff from which the fishermen would watch the changing tides for schools of akule. There are sacred spaces like the family heiau where prayers and offerings were made by ‘ohana to the gods. At various spots visitors can dip their hands into the hollowed-out stones where ocean salt was dried to preserve fish. There is even a game board where the settlers played Konane (a form of checkers) with black and white pebbles. The entire park serves as an informative archaeological site for those interested in how the ancient Hawaiians lived, and it was incredibly moving.

As we were leaving, I saw two locals with snorkeling gear enter the water at Koai‘e Cove. Apparently just off the shore from the Historical Park is the state-protected Lapakahi Marine Life Conservation District renowned for its marine life. There’s a small sandy section at the Cove, and even though the entry looks tricky, I would love to go back another time and explore the area.

Situated on the northwestern curve of the Kohala district, Lapakahi is a state-run park is comprised of 262 acres, much of it along the coastline, and is completely free to visit. There is a small parking lot at the beginning of the trail along with maps to grab for your self-guided tour. Walking the entire park takes less than an hour on mostly flat ground, though the path is unpaved and not suitable for strollers or wheelchairs.

Hāwī

The quaint town of Hāwī is situated right at the Northern corner of the Big Island. Best known as the childhood haunt of King Kamehameha I, as well as the turnaround spot for the bike leg of the Ironman World Championship, Hāwī was once the busy hub of the defunct sugar cane industry. Today, the old plantation buildings are filled with bougie boutiques, art galleries, food markets and restaurants, and we spent a lovely half-day soaking in the charm of Hāwī.

Our first stop was the Sunshine Trading Company, a beautifully curated boutique with aesthetic gifts galore. While my daughter perused the handmade journals, my husband and I drooled over the evocative artwork. The clothes leaned towards soft linen neutrals and tasteful Hawaiian shirts for men. I ended up leaving with a one-of-a-kind handblocked textile that could be used as a tablecloth or pareo depending on my need.

Next, we hit up Kohala Grown Market, a small but mighty grocery with an incredible selection of products like locally grown fruits and vegetables; dairy and meat from Waimea ranches; and plenty of choices from Big Island Bees including rich Macadamia honey. They even had beautifully packaged handmade pasta under a special label: Kai. Since this wasn’t our last stop of the day, we only picked up a few things, but their mangos were the sweetest I’ve ever tasted.

By far our favorite place in Hāwī was the Bamboo Restaurant & Gallery where we had lunch. Just walking into the building was like a trip back in time. The restaurant is housed in an early 1900s structure that was once a hotel for plantation day laborers and Japanese merchants. By 1926, the Takata family had purchased the hotel and turned it into a dry goods and grocery business—also living on the premises. In the 1990s, the Takata family built a new store just down the road and the Bamboo Restaurant was born.

Specializing in Pacific Rim dishes, the Bamboo Restaurant is obviously a local institution and beloved by locals and tourists alike. My daughter loved the Thai Coconut soba noodles with shrimp dish, all the vegetables were fresh and crisp, and the coconut sauce was wonderfully light while still complex. Also delectable was the Kahlua pork and cabbage, lightly seasoned and served with a variety of regional hot sauces.

But food is only part of the Bamboo’s lure. The décor is Hawaiian tutu chic, kitschy but somehow also stylish—even with embellished umbrellas hanging from the ceiling and mismatched fabric napkins. They are known for their lively cocktails and rumor has it that the live music nights are basically the best party around. The restaurant wait staff—all Hawaiian women—were amiable and solicitous. The owner even came out to check on everyone’s meals. Hands down the best service we’ve had in a dining establishment for years.

Anaehoomalu Bay Beach

This beach is hardly a secret, seeing as it is positioned right in front of the Waikoloa Beach Marriott, but this was our first time spending any time there. At first glance, Anaehoomalu—or “A-Bay” as it’s affectionately known—seems pretty standard. It’s a medium-sized crescent shaped beach with plenty of facilities, like restrooms, showers, water rentals, and food options. There is a generous reef that provides calm waters which makes it a favorite for families with small kids.

So why, you might ask, were we so enchanted? It took me a while to figure it out, but the answer is: tranquility. So many beaches on the Big Island have a frisson of unease to them. Some can be treacherous to get to. The sharp lava coastline makes many beaches not swimmer-friendly. There are channels and currents to maneuver. Many are just too small and filled with people to be considered relaxing.

A Bay has the perfect mix of ease, sun, shade, visual interest, and gloriously effortless water. As you walk from the plentiful parking lot, you pass a grove of pine trees which are handy to hide under during the hottest hours of the day. To the right of the bay are historical fishponds where Hawaiian royals raised mullet and other small fish. The snorkeling isn’t as fantastic as at other spots, but there is plenty to see close to the shore and friendly turtles to follow.

Possibly the best point in its favor are the sunsets: some of the best on the island as evidenced by the scores of people who gather each night in silent salute. We had two very special nights swimming and watching the sun go down in fiery stripes of pink, orange and red.   

Tell me about your favorite Hawaii spots in the comments below.

Aloha!